Dior plagiarized a Chinese horse-faced skirt? Insiders in the clothing industry have something to say
Recently, the famous luxury brand Dior was suddenly scolded on the hot search, and Gaine netizens found that one of its newly launched midi skirts was suspected of plagiarizing elements of the Chinese Ming Dynasty horse-faced skirt, and Dior was not only on the official websiteThe list price is 29,000 yuan, and it is alsoClaiming to be an "iconic Dior silhouette", this move caused public opinion to ferment.
In the whirlpool of public opinion, there are two sides of the argument endlessly, which is quite representative:
On the one hand, from the standpoint of safeguarding traditional Chinese culture, the official actions of Dior are plagiarism, cultural appropriation, and cultural plagiarism, which will make the copyright of the version of the horse-faced skirt recognized by other countries in the long run, involving huge interests;
On the other hand, some netizens think that some netizens are making too much of a fuss, and the design is a re-creation on the basis, and the same is true for suits and jeans.
To this end, Zhiyi Technology interviewed a number of practitioners in the clothing industry, including well-known brand clothing designers, front-line women's clothing market personnel, etc., to clarify your thoughts and find your own direction in the controversy.
The so-called "horse face skirt" is one of the most typical styles of Han women in the Ming and Qing dynasties, and the specific characteristics are four skirt doors before and after, two by two, the side is pleated, and the middle skirt door is overlapped into a smooth surface, commonly known as "horse face".
Details of the structure of the horse-faced skirt
The history of the horse-faced skirt can even be traced back to the Song Dynasty, and the development to the Chenghua period of the Ming Dynasty, from the mother of a country to the common people of Li, everyone wears a horse-faced skirt, only in texture, decoration and color There is a strict distinction to distinguish between classes.
Since the rise of the national trend, Hanfu has been admired and loved by many young people, including horse face skirts. According to the background data of Zhiyi,There are not a few products related to horse face skirts, with sales exceeding 10,000 or 100,000。
Zhiyi backstage horse face skirt sales data
Based on this, many netizens stand on the position of protecting Chinese culture, believing that the horse-faced skirt is a unique traditional national costume in China, and Dior's "innovation" by changing fabrics and colors and claiming "iconic silhouettes" has been out of the category of reference layout.
Horse-faced skirt contrasted with Dior dress
Some netizens are worried that if Dior certifies the silhouette of the horse-faced skirt, it will evolve into the same situation as the Dragon Boat Festival being judged by the United Nations as a Korean folk festival.
Such as Weibo @ Manguilong Hanfu Studio: "The sadness is not the difference in price, after all, the brand has the value of the brand, but the silhouette of this Dior logo, whether it is Dior who doesn't know the horse-faced skirt unintentionally, or deliberately marked, let Xiaoman see it, the treasure is different." Obviously, this shape belonged to us a hundred years ago, but I am afraid that after a hundred years, we will only know Dior, but I don't know Han, no matter the clothes'. ”
There is also Weibo @行者先生: "These luxury brands with the cultural practice of stealing are not once or twice." In many cases, in terms of the discourse power of international design, the influence of international celebrities/media to form a communication effect may really 'become' them, and maybe the ancient Chinese will be judged to have plagiarized them. ”
1929 European Traditional Classical Group Manuscript
In addition to the surging national sentiment, a fashion designer who has been in the overseas fashion market for many years has a different view, he believes: "This one is closer to the traditional European classical skirt in terms of details, although it is not as early as Hanfu, but I think Dior does not need to copy the Hanfu skirt." ”
More couturiers are calmer, and they think that Dior's silhouette is indeed a copy of the horse-faced skirt from a design point of view, but the overall style is completely different."The truth is that big-name designers also need to learn from historical archives。 A practitioner with 10 years of experience in clothing fashion trends told us.
In addition to the position and right and wrong, we extend another topic worth pondering: what is the boundary between borrowing and copying in clothing design? How to determine the subjective intent of the designer?
Long before the Dior horse dress scandal, there was a lot of debate in the clothing industry about plagiarism and borrowing, among which the genius designer Virgil Abloh's 3% theory was the most important, that is, "It only takes 3% to change the design of a classic item to make it a completely new design”。
As soon as this theory was proposed, many people in the fashion industry directly criticized it as plagiarism, and regarded Virgil Abloh as a provocation to originality. But on the other hand, the 3% theory does provide a new way of thinking for young designers.
In our interview, a fashion designer said based on the Dior horse dress incident: "Design is innovation, not invention, it is not a creative process from scratch.One of the theories of innovation is called 'combinatorial innovation', that is, 'old elements, new combinations.'’。 From the perspective of fashion designers, they largely disassemble the basic elements of a dress (material, style, color, process, details, etc.), based on brand DNA, combined with fashion trends and market demand, and constantly recombined, so as to give birth to countless new models. Fashion should be international in nature and not be criticized with too much national sentiment. ”
From the standpoint of being "borrowed or plagiarized", there are also Korean designers who complained that Margiela plagiarized his works: "For big brand designers, it's best to remember that just because a creator creates something that fits seamlessly with your world doesn't mean they created it for you。 If it's so perfect, then it's worth finding a more efficient way to 'work together'. ”
For example, Zhihu @Diva Brando's question: "The Pirate Lord's Madame Butterfly show is also marked with a lot of references to Chinese culture,References need to be annotated, not taken away without saying a word。”
Returning to the original controversy of Dior's horse-faced skirt, perhaps when Dior's official official statement finally indicated the source and replaced the "Dior iconic silhouette" with "Chinese-style design", the emotional national stance gradually dissipated, and Chinese consumers will make objective judgments based on the perspective of design.
A limited edition of the big brand's Chinese style
After all, in the past, when big brands such as GUCCI, Balenciaga, and NIKE launched various limited models for the New Year's zodiac, the vast majority of consumers never criticized, and even volunteered to contribute heat on social platforms, even because they were ugly.
So, in the process of clothing design, how should designers look at the trend based on the DNA of their own brands, and realize the deconstruction and reorganization of clothing design elements in the new season?
The answer is to create your own "fashion profile".
Through the latest algorithms such as big data, image recognition technology, and artificial intelligence recommendation engine, "Zhiqian" under Zhiyi Technology has collected information from fashion platforms and fashion shows at home and abroad such as INS and WeiboupThe largest structured apparel database in the apparel industry。
precipitation of high-quality clothing data assets,Easy for brands/designersGet the latest and most comprehensive trend analysis and market data in one place, so that the scattered multi-party information is summarized and sorted, so as to accurately predict the fashion trend, unlock design inspiration, collect design elements, and reshape the vitality of the brand.
Show information of the known paragraph
For example, in business scenarios such as product planning and product development, brands/designers can predict future fashion trends by deconstructing key elements such as colors, fabrics, styles, and patterns highlighted in big-name shows, combine their own inspiration and collect relevant information, so as to make a reserve of design elements for next season's product planning.
Smart Marking Design Elements
In addition, in the "fashion profile" created by the brand/designer, Zhiyi also supports users to upload their own pictures, which is not only private and can be set to be visible only to themselves, but also supports open sharing permissions, so that team members can share design inspiration and create a series of works.
Inspiration gathering
As one of the senior fashion designers we spoke to put it,Design is actually the accumulation of aestheticsThe reason why there is a controversy over the topic of Dior and horse face skirts is also related to the general trend of retro resurgence. Nowadays, more and more classic clothes are being reimagined on the modern fashion stage. For brands/designers, create their own fashion archives and inspiration will never run out.
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